What is the Ha Giang Loop?

The Ha Giang Loop is an epic motorcycle route that takes you through the rough terrain of North Vietnam in the Ha Giang Province. Ha Giang, one of the most scenic areas in Vietnam, has attracted motorbikers for decades. If you go, you will spend your days riding through local villages, mountain jungles, massive valleys, volcanic-like rocks, canyons, rivers, and more unbelievable places. It will also be a journey that you will never forget.

The Hmong People

As you drive through the villages you will see the Hmong people going about their daily lives. The Hmong are the largest ethnic group in the Ha Giang province and one of the largest in Vietnam. You’ll quickly notice their beautifully colored traditional dresses and the friendly children yelling “HELLO” from the side of the road (the braver ones will give you a high 5 as you pass, but be careful – they slap hard).

When you look up the mountain you will see them farming their land which is amazing to witness because it is built into the side of some of the steepest mountains in all of Vietnam. For most of us, it is a lifestyle we have never witnessed nor imagined exists, so as you drive through the backroads and villages, try to practice mindfulness and gratitude for your own life, while noticing the immense strength and happiness you see throughout the Hmong people, especially the women and children. We can all learn something from them.

How does one do the loop?

The main (and best) way to do the Ha Giang Loop is on a motorbike. The roads are windy and have tight turns and steep hills making the drive just as much of a journey as the loop itself. You also have easier access to viewpoints and more flexibility on a bike. The second option is to take a car. Isabelle and I never considered this route, so I don’t know much about it, but I assume you would just hire a company to drive you through the loop.

There is no set route for the loop, so however long you have will determine your route. Isabelle and I rode about 400km over 4 days. This seems to be the average, but people go longer (7 days+) or shorter (2-3 days). Our hostel offered 3D2N or 4D3N. If you try to do it in two days you will spend most of your time riding and honestly won’t be able to relax and enjoy the view. It’s not recommended to say the least.

When to go?

We rode the loop in March of 2024 and the weather was fantastic. We had blue skies and sun the whole time. However, just a week earlier it was rainy and cold, so it’s hard to plan it perfectly. March is at the end of Vietnam’s dry season which runs from October-April, so it is a safe time. The dry season is the best time to visit, but from December-February it can be cold, so plan accordingly and bring a jacket just in case.

Group or Solo?

Solo

The first option is to do the loop on your own. This is what I recommend for those looking for more of an adventure. You can rent a bike from a hostel in Ha Giang and then head out on your own. Online, there are tons of routes from people before you. However, most rental companies do have a route map that they give you depending on how many days you’re doing it for. QT Motorbikes is a company that comes to mind.

Being on your own you have the flexibility to pick and choose what sites you see and where you stop. When you feel tired, stop at one of the many homestays along the road and spend the night there. You can also hire a private guide to make your life a bit easier and still have the freedom of solo travel. We did not consider a private guide due to our budget, so I don’t have much knowledge about them.

Group

The most popular way to do the loop is with an organized group. There are a ton of hostels that plan and organize trips. You can find big hostels that have groups of 50+ or smaller ones with groups of 5-10. Isabelle and I did it with a hostel called “Bong Hostel”. When you do the loop with a group you pay a fee up front and they take care of everything else. Your route is planned, the bike is full of gas, accommodation is booked, and food is covered. The only thing we had to pay for was drinks.

We considered doing the loop on our own, but we agreed a group trip would be more suitable for us. We spoke to a few people while traveling who did it with a group and absolutely loved it, so we decided to go that route. It made planning a heck of a lot easier, and we wanted the social aspect of it.

We did the loop with Bong Hostel and it was the best choice we could’ve made. The group was a nice size (20ish people), the easy riders were awesome, and the whole trip was well organized. During the four days, we became best friends with the rest of our group. We survived dangerous roads on a motorcycle during the day, ate family-style meals for lunch and dinner, and drank happy water while singing karaoke to end the night. Nothing bonds people better than near-death experiences and alcohol. We quickly formed friendships that felt much older than four days. Saying goodbye to them felt like saying goodbye to friends you had known for years.

How to get to Ha Giang

You can book bus tickets from any city in Northern Vietnam to Ha Giang. Most will be sleeper buses that pick you up late at night and arrive in Ha Giang early in the morning. I recommend booking through a hostel or hotel. I’ve found their prices to be better than online, and you’ll get picked up directly from their place which makes it easy. If you’re booking a group tour they will handle the whole travel itinerary for you.

To drive or not to drive, that is the question.

Once Isabelle and I decided to do the loop with a group, we had to choose how to ride it. When doing the Ha Giang Loop with a group you have three options: ride with an easy rider (local professional driver), drive your own bike, or ride as a passenger on a friend’s bike.

Easy-Rider

Going with an Easy-Rider is the most popular and safest option. 14 out of the 20 people in our group chose the easy-rider route, and there is a good reason for it. Obviously, safety is very important and these drivers are professionals. Our head guide had driven the Ha Giang Loop over 200 times.

Not only is it the safest option, but in many ways, it can be a more enjoyable trip, too. You spend your day relaxing and enjoying the beautiful views and don’t have to worry about what’s around the next corner of some tight turn on top of a mountain with no guard rail. That’s for the driver to worry about. You just have to sit back and relax. We spoke to multiple people who even said they were so relaxed that they fell asleep – try not to do that though for obvious reasons.

Drive Yourself

Four of us chose to drive our own bikes; Ethan, Maria, Alex, and myself. Ethan, an experienced driver from the UK, always knew he would drive himself, and he had no issues the whole trip. Maria and I both had experience on 50cc scooters, so we were comfortable on 2 wheels but didn’t have experience off-roading, or with semi-automatic bikes. We both struggled at times but made it through the loop with no crashes and were happy we chose to drive. Lastly, Alex has little experience on 2-wheels but chose to drive anyway. He made it through the loop with only one crash (More on this later).

Ride with a Friend

Alex and I also took a passenger on our bike. Isabelle rode behind me the whole time, and Alex took his friend, Dan.

Riding together was something we debated a lot before starting the loop. We met plenty of people who drove themselves, but when we brought up driving together most people said it was not a good idea. However, we decided we wanted to do the trip together so she rode with me (it was also cheaper for her to ride with me).

It was difficult at times, and there were absolutely moments when a large truck was pushing us off the road that we wondered why we didn’t just get an easy rider, but as we pulled into the homestay at the end of each night we knew it was the right choice. If I could go back, I wouldn’t change a single thing (not even Alex and Dan crashing).

As for Alex and Dan, this is something I would not recommend. Alex didn’t have experience driving a bike and the heavier the bike the harder it is to drive, so he had quite a challenge. The loop is not a place to learn to ride.

They fell off once because Alex downshifted to first with the throttle down, so they lost control of the bike. They had a few other close calls, so unless you’re experienced driving, I would avoid having a passenger. However, they are both completely fine and they had a blast. I’m guessing if you asked Alex and Dan yourself they would tell you to ride with your friend and figure it out. So, if you really want to do it, then do it. You’ll most likely be fine.

PRACTICE

If you decide to drive, I HIGHLY advise renting a semi-automatic scooter before you do the loop to practice. Isabelle and I rented a scooter on Cat Ba island for 5 days before Ha Giang. This gave me time to learn the gears and get comfortable on the bike. Most importantly, it gave me a lot of extra confidence when we began the loop. All three of the most common crashes can be avoided with a little practice and experience.

At the end of the day, 1) driving yourself and 2) being a passenger are very different experiences. I believe most people can drive the loop, so if you want to drive, then do it. Yes, you will be nervous but you will have a blast. If you want to chill and enjoy some of the most amazing views you’ve ever seen, then hire an easy rider.

If you are doing the trip WITHOUT a tour group, then you are most likely driving yourself. However, while on the loop, I saw private groups of three, which appeared to have a guide with a passenger, and one other person solo driving. I assume you could get a private guide to drive you. Most of these tour companies will pretty much cater to whatever you need for the right price.

Crashing

There are three main reasons people crash, so if you’re driving always be aware of:

1) first gear 2) the kickstand 3) the front brake

If you’re not taking a passenger, you’ll probably never go into first gear. If you have a passenger, you definitely will. Make sure that when you do downshift to first gear you are off the throttle or the bike will come out from under you (this is how Alex and Dan crashed).

We saw another person crash (a different group) because he forgot to put up his kickstand. He tried to turn left around a bend but couldn’t because the kickstand was down, so he had to bail off the bike before he went off the cliff. He was fine, but definitely startled.

We did not have any issues with the front brake but our hostel told us people tend to panic-grab the front brake and send themselves over the handlebars.

These causes can be avoided with a little practice and becoming comfortable on the bike. So once again, rent a scooter before and practice.

What to Expect

A Day in the Life of a Ha Giang Loop Rider

Morning

Breakfast is served around 8 AM, and you are on the road by 9. Easy-riders will get their bikes ready ahead of time, so if you are a driver you are expected to do the same. Don’t be the people holding up the group after every stop. You will ride for a few hours in the morning, taking stops every 45 minutes or so. There will probably be an activity for the morning too (waterfall, hiking, boat ride, etc). You will have an hour for a family-style lunch (see Food & Drink for more info)

Afternoon

After lunch, you’re back on the road for a few more hours of riding. You’ll once again stop every 45 min or so and may have a bigger activity for the afternoon.

Your views during the day greatly depend on how you decide to ride. Like I said before, if you are with an Easy-Rider, you’ll have a relaxing ride the whole time. You can roll your sleeves up and get some sun (or just take your shirt off), breathe in the fresh air, and send plenty of pictures to your friends who are at work back home. If you’re driving yourself, your afternoon can be a peaceful cruise on smooth roads or a sweat-induced cliffside survival ride.

Surprisingly, 80% of the driving was decently smooth roads. Vietnam has worked hard to fix the Ha Giang roads for decades. The other 20% can be very challenging dirt and gravel roads on mountains with no guard rail. The most challenging areas were construction zones where they were fixing the road.

Evening

You’ll reach your next homestay around 5 PM and have a few hours to relax, drink a beer, shower, play cards, swim in the river, or whatever else you want to do before another family-style dinner at 7.

At dinner, you’ll eat another delicious family-style meal before the happy water is brought out and your night truly begins. You’ll spend the next few hours socializing with the drivers and other riders, inviting people to take shots of happy water, and singing karaoke like you’re on American Idol. What we love about Bong is that they have a 10 PM curfew: karaoke gets turned off, the happy water is put away (well, most of it anyway) and the group winds down and heads in for the night (you’d be surprised how exhausted you are at 10pm after a long day of epic adventures).

Some tour companies don’t have a curfew, or at least have a reputation for staying up very late. So we’re happy that Bong operates with the curfew, because you start everything over again at 8 AM the next day, and happy water does not make for a happy morning.

Packing List

You will leave your big bag back at the hostel, or wherever you rented your bike from. You will take a day pack and strap it to the back of the bike. Packing is pretty standard, but here are a few items to remember:

• CASH
  • If you’re with a group all you pay for is drinks. Isabelle and I spent less than 500k during our trip. Beer, coffee, and soda all tend to be around 20-30K per drink. Happy Water (rice spirit) was free for us throughout the trip.
• INTERNATIONAL DRIVERS PERMIT
  • If you plan on driving this one is very important. If you do not have an international motorcycle license you are driving illegally. Police have become more strict recently due to tourists hurting themselves (or dying). and they make money from these fines. On the first day, you will encounter police checkpoints. Bong has a system where they shuttle drivers through the checkpoint if they do not have a proper license. USA international permits are not recognized, so if you’re from the US you are driving illegally no matter what (this was me). This is a big benefit of using a tour group.
  • Not all tour companies have a system for police checkpoints. We talked to one guy who said every driver was fined in their group and they did not try to avoid the police. This was a big plus for Bong Hostel because we heard they had a system for the drivers. The fine is typically 2,000,000 VND.
  • If you’re doing the loop yourself, I’ve read you can start the day early (6 AM) OR in the late afternoon to avoid the checkpoints but I am not positive.
• Sunscreen
• Sunglasses
• Swimsuit
  • We swam 2 out of 4 days on our trip

Food & Drink

If you’re going with a group, all your food is provided, so there is nothing to worry about. Breakfast is typically eggs with another dish accompanying it (bread, soup, noodles). Lunch and dinner are family-style meals with beef, pork, chicken, egg, spring rolls, rice, noodles, veggies, and fruit. The meals can feel a bit repetitive but they are all delicious. The portions are huge so you’ll never be hungry. If you need snacks, you can get them at one of the many stops throughout the day.

The main thing you’ll be drinking on the loop is water. During the day it is regular water, at night it is Happy Water. Assuming you know what regular water is, I’ll dive into happy water.

Happy Water is a spirit made from rice or corn. From what I’ve seen, happy water made with rice is more common. The corn Happy Water we drank was slightly pink and a little sweeter. The rice one is clear with a bit of a haze. I like the corn one more, but Isabelle likes the rice one, so try them both if you can.

During our tour, the happy water was provided to us every night by the homestay (this is not the case for all tours. Another point for bong!). You learn to say (it’s more of a yell) cheers in Vietnamese and spend the night inviting your new friends and the drivers to a drink. Happy Water also helps you find your inner voice when karaoke comes out. Happy water was unlimited for us, but be careful because happy water does not make for a happy morning.

That’s all I’ve got for you, so put your helmet on and enjoy the Ha Giang Loop!

We also have a Ha Giang Loop YouTube video coming soon! When it is ready I will link it here!