Welcome to Scotland! Home to vast lochs, thick purple heather, sheep of all shapes and colors, hairy and not-so-hairy coos, as well as some incredible castles & iconic cities. All of these combine to create one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.

We spent 2 weeks exploring the beautiful Scottish Highlands – staying in some accommodations that were totally remote, to other accommodations in small towns, villages & cities. We started and ended our journey in Edinburgh, a city we became obsessed with for its rich (yet depressing) place in history of the UK, but also for the people, culture and beautiful gothic architecture.

Sheep & heather sightings on Old Military Rd

 If you’re reading this, a trip to Scotland might already be on your bucket list. Or, perhaps you’ve been hesitant because you don’t know how to do it the right way, and you’ve found yourself searching the internet for guidance.

Well, no matter the circumstances, you’ve made it here – and we can assure you, you’re in the right place. We hope that after you’ve read our version of a Scotland Guide – one with a lot of personal opinions (the good & the bad), our shop & food recommendations, locations and viewpoints that are not to be missed & more – that we have convinced you to book that plane ticket and go on your adventure through Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands.

Piper at Blair Castle in Pitlochry

Grab a cup of coffee (or tea), and let our experience guide and inspire you to go see your own version of Scotland – & hopefully, in a car. ↓

Scotland is home to some gorgeous landscapes – but, many of these can only be seen by car. Specifically, the Scottish Highlands have no shortage of scenic routes that will take you to both mountainous and countryside landscapes that are lush, green, and off-the-grid.

From our own experience, we can tell you that the absolute best way to explore it is by taking a roadtrip. A road trip gives you the freedom to take whatever path you’d like, and spend time in the places you discover along the way – maybe even extending a night or two if you love a particular location.

The trains in Scotland will take you from city to city, but you’ll miss out on the whole point of exploring Scotland, which is: to find stunning locations that you can’t access by train or bus. And to be completely honest, we came in contact with a few tour buses throughout our roadtrip, and felt incredibly grateful to be doing it in our own car. The freedom of driving yourself and being able to stop whenever you want, is worth it.

Glen Docherty Viewpoint

We had 8 days on the road, starting and ending in Edinburgh. As much as we would’ve loved to explore the entire coastline of Scotland, we simply didn’t have time.

We decided to drive counterclockwise instead of clockwise since the west coast, especially the Isle of Skye, is said to be the most beautiful, so we saved what we thought would be the best for last. 

Here’s where we stayed: Edinburgh → Aberdeen→ Inverness→ Dingwall→ Coulin(3 nights)→ Pitlochry (2 nights)

If you have more time, look up the NC500 route. A famous route that takes you around the entire north coast of Scotland.

Mama Dee & a Hairy Coo at Torran Cottage, Kinlochewe

Below is the Google Map we created during our road trip. Save it and use it as a guide during your trip. You’ll find the route we drove with some of our favorite sights, stops, shops and restaurants along the way ↓

 If you’re planning you’re trip to Scotland, you’ve probably heard of these popular destinations.

So here’s our opinions & recommendations on them:

1.  Edinburgh: Worth it. We loved our time in this hilly capital. The city landscape is simply iconic, with Edinburgh Castle sitting high upon a cliff and a medieval Old Town that smells like it’s got centuries worth of history. It really feels like you’re walking around Hogwarts. You should definitely spend a few days exploring Edinburgh.

We highly recommend going on a free walking tour of the city to start out your trip. We book all of our walking tours through the app FREETOUR.com and highly recommend it for its ease of use and variety of tour options. Once you’ve learned some facts about the city’s history and architecture, it will make walking around on your own much more fun and meaningful!

Consider these accommodations in Edinburgh (on Booking.com):

→ Linton Collection – 28 North Bridge

→ 33 Castle Terrace

→ Market Street Hotel

→ High Street Hostel

2.  Glasgow: Worth it. Although we didn’t get the chance to visit Glasgow, I recently watched an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s take on Scotland’s largest cosmopolitan city and now wished we had taken a day trip here. He highlights Glasgow’s dark history of crime, the hilarious Glaswegians, and the food of this epic city.

I’d recommend visiting by train – you can easily take a train from Edinburgh’s Waverley station to Glasgow’s Queen Street train station in 50 min. Book your train ticket to Glasgow right here.

Free Walking Tour in Edinburgh – the best way to get to know this city!

3.  Aberdeen: Not worth it. We arrived around 5PM after a day of beautiful sights and driving, found some dinner, walked around, and went back to the hotel. This was enough time in Aberdeen. The city did not particularly excite us – to be honest, it felt a bit eerie and lonely. It is a university town, and we visited in the middle of summer, so maybe that’s why it felt like a ghost town.

However, Aberdeen does make for a great resting point after your first day on the road. We actually loved the hotel we stayed at, despite the city itself being a bit disappointing. 

Checkout this accommodation on Booking.com → Aloft Aberdeen TECA

4.  Inverness: Worth it. We liked Inverness more than Aberdeen, but it’s small enough to only spend one day here. We walked across the very wobbly, yet impressive Grieg Street Bridge, a footbridge that crosses the River Ness. Then explored the old town center, eating dinner at The Victorian Market.

We booked accommodation last minute and found the most budget-friendly option we could. It was an adorable guesthouse with a few rooms. It was cozy, and breakfast was exactly the homemade Scottish breakfast we had been looking for.

Checkout this accommodation on Booking.com → Ivanhoe Guest House 

Not far from Inverness is the 14th century Cawdor Castle, with its impressive iron gate, moat & drawbridge

Cawdor Gardens is an absolute must-do when visiting the castle

6. Isle of Skye: Check available accommodation before making a final decision. Located on the west coast and known for its whimsical and dramatic landscapes, Isle of Skye is one of the top destinations to visit in Scotland. Naturally, this was high on our to-do list, but in the end, we skipped it. I know – it’s controversial… but here’s why we decided against it:

Isle of Skye can get very busy, have bad weather, and be outrageously overpriced (probably their way of trying to scare off tourists – it surely worked on us). After going back and forth about it, we decided against going. Instead, we went to Pitlochry, and have no regrets. 

If you really want to go here (and we understand this is an absolute must for some of you), go in the early Spring or early Autumn for better weather, and fewer tourists.

Our good friends from Wales did a Scotland road trip a few weeks after us and went to Isle of Skye. They said it was crowded, expensive and had poor road conditions. It was one of their least favorite places and they even told us we made the right decision by skipping it – Whew. 

There is no shortage of beauty in Scotland, so don’t feel like you have to go here just because everything and everyone says you should.

Dunnottar Castle in Stonehaven

1.  Dunrobin Castle: Located in the Northern Highlands and also the most northly of Scotland’s great houses, the castle is one of Britain’s oldest continuously inhabited houses dating back to the early 1300s, and was home to the Earls and then the Dukes of Sutherland.

This stop had the biggest ‘wow’ factor for sure, and is straight-up impressive. The castle itself is gorgeous, but its attached garden overlooking the Dornoch Firth, is just as spectacular.

→ Falconry Show: most days at 11:30 & 14:30, you can watch a falconry show in the castle gardens.

For more information about the castle tours and falconry showtimes click here.

Dunrobin Castle

Falconry hood used to control the moments a trainer and bird interact, & to minimize negative stimuli

2.  Dunnottar Castle:  Built in the 14th century and overlooking the North Sea, Dunnottar Castle was once used during the fight for Scottish independence, but is now a ruin. A beautiful ruin, though built on an impressive cliff overlooking the sea. We still don’t quite understand how it was built, but curiosity is part of the fun, right?

We stopped at Dunnottar on our way from Edinburgh to Aberdeen on our first day. Although we didn’t arrive early enough to tour the grounds, we did arrive after 6pm when they allow drones to fly. The sunset lighting made for the perfect photo opportunity.

Dunnottar Castle

3.  Old Military Road & the A93:A beautiful road and highway connecting Edinburgh and Aberdeen. I’d highly recommend driving this way if you’re in the area even if it’s not the most direct route. You’ll see plenty of rivers, lochs, castles, cows, sheep – it makes for a very scenic drive.  

→ Check out our Google Map, with some stunning roadside stops along your drive!

Sheep along the A93

Looking for trolls under an abandoned bridge!

4.  Pitlochry: Located in the heart of Highland Perthshire beside River Tummel, the town of Pitlochry is rich with Victorian heritage. Pitlochry is surrounded by beautiful woodlands, and is considered to be one of most walkable towns in Scotland.

It was our favorite town. We spent our last two nights here, and it was a perfect place to end our roadtrip. With one Main Street, loaded with shops, cafes, restaurants & more just around the corner – it kept us busy and might have broke the bank just a wee bit…

→ Visit Blair Castle and Blair Atholl Distillery while you’re in Pitlochry. On certain days Blair Castle has a bag piper perform in the courtyard, so check their website for more information when you’re visiting. 

Blair Atholl Distillery Tour

Blair Castle

5.  House of Bruar: Also located in Pitlochry, but deserving of its’ own section, is the best shopping in all of Scotland.

This shop might just be Scotland’s best kept secrets. You’ll find a timeless collection of traditional tweeds and plaids, as well as leather shoes and boots. At House of Bruar, natural fibers are prioritised, and heritage fabrics are sourced from UK and Irish suppliers.

You can easily spend half a day here. Make sure to checkout the outlet for insane discounts, and eat fish & chips in between shopping at the mall. 

Fashioning my new look, courtesy of the House of Bruar outlet section!

6. Coulin: Located off the A896, and a 20 minute drive from the nearby town of Kinlochewe is Coulin Estates. An off-the-grid and picturesque estate that features a couple of rentable Airbnb’s throughout. The estate is also home to Lochs’ Clair and Coulin.

We had hairy coos outside of our front door and the scenery was exactly what we were looking for in our version of a remote, Highlands fantasy land. To top it off, there were even a couple of beautiful white Highland ponies.

You may or may not decide this is a place you need to stop along your own Scotland adventure.

Coulin Estates: We stayed in the cottage, but the farmhouse is just as darling. The catch is that the Coulin properties are available for a minimum of 3 nights.. 

→ Coulin Farmhouse

→ Torran Cottage

Highland Pony near Torran Cottage 

Views from our kitchen window at Torran Cottage

Scottish food is very much comfort food. Hot soup, warm meat, and large portions will be a recurring theme during your time in Scotland. Bakeries also make delicious bread and pies. However, if you’re looking for something healthier, fresh fish is an excellent choice. Here are a few dishes you have to try during your time in Scotland:

Haggis: Probably Scotland’s most famous dish, haggis is a variety of sheep parts minced and mixed with herbs and spices, then cooked in the sheep’s stomach lining. Does it sound appetizing? No. But does it taste great? Yes. This meal is obviously not for everyone, but it’s worth a try. There are many variations nowadays, including a vegetarian version – not available everywhere, but at least they’re working to incorporate it more often!

Neeps and Tatties: A traditional Scottish dish made of mashed turnips (neeps) and mashed potatoes (tatties). This is often served with haggis and it’s a really nice combo. This is my favorite way to eat haggis, so give this a shot if you want try haggis without having to eat it by itself. 

Scotch Whiskey: During our time in Pitlochry we did a tour of the Blair Atholl Distillery which has been making whiskey since 1798. We learned about the requirements to make a true Scotch Whiskey and finished our day with a taste test. 

Blair Atholl Whiskey Distillery

Black Pudding: Another well-known Scottish dish, black pudding is a sausage made with blood and oatmeal. Yes, I know—it doesn’t sound appealing, but it’s a must-try while in Scotland. I found it to be quite good especially with breakfast. Blood and meat to start your day! 

Scotch Egg: The Scotch egg, a simple but delicious food item, is a boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat and breadcrumbs, then baked or fried. You’ll find them at most markets, so if you’re looking for a quick snack while on the road, give this a try.

Scotch Eggs make for a great snack while exploring the Grass Market in Edinburgh

Scotland winters are cold and dreary, so summer is the best time to visit. However, summer is peak tourist season, so I recommend going in the early to mid-springtime or in early fall when you’ll still have decent weather on most days, but it will be a little less crowded.

Even in the summertime, we still had some cold and rainy days.

August Events in Edinburgh: Edinburgh Film Festival and Fringe are held this time of year, making the city a very lively place to be. But it also means that accommodations will be more expensive, and the city will be filled with people. You’ll likely need to make dining reservations in advance.

If you do go in the summer, make sure to book things early, especially in busier places. Our favorite site to use for accommodation is Booking.com.

Meet Murdo, the Hairy Coo, at Castle Roy

Every August this Hogwarts-esque stadium is set up for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

Driving in Scotland can be intimidating, especially if you’re not used to driving on the left side of the road. However, if you take it slow and think twice before you turn, everything will be fine. Once you’re out of the city, things become much easier and less busy.

Many of the country roads are single-lane, so if someone is driving toward you, one of you needs to pull over. On these single-lane roads, there are many designated pull-off areas for passing. If you’re able, pull into one, flash your lights to let the other vehicle know you’re stopping, and let them pass. If they flash at you first, keep driving, and they will pull over.

Applecross Pass – Scotland’s most dangerous road.

Here are a few driving tips to make life easier:

1. Passing lanes are not parking lanes: Don’t park your vehicle in a passing lane. Drive a bit farther and find an actual parking area.
2. Let people pass: If someone is behind you on a single-lane road and driving faster than you, let them pass. Pull into a passing lane and wave them through. They’ll be happy and you can enjoy the views without someone riding your tail.
3. Back up downhill, not uphill: If you’re at a standstill with a vehicle approaching and neither of you has easy access to a pull-off area, the person facing downhill should reverse. Don’t make someone back up uphill.
4. Get insurance on rentals: Many of the roads are narrow with bushes on the sides, so get insurance if you’re renting a vehicle. A big scratch from a branch can cost a lot of money. Always takes photos and videos of the vehicle you rent before driving off the lot. If any damage disputes happen this will save you big time. 
5. Rent a camper van: Next time I go to Scotland, I’ll rent a camper van. We saw many people driving rented vans and campers. This has all the benefits of driving a car, but you can also sleep at campsites and save money.

We rented our car from SIXT in Edinburgh Old Town and I HIGHLY recommend them. The gentleman who helped us out was super nice, and easy to work with and their prices were fair.

I won’t include a full packing list, but I will include these very important items; warm layers – specifically wool and fleece is great for the Scotland climate, rain gear, wool socks/underwear, a sturdy shoe that you won’t mind getting a little muddy, and Midge spray.

I had never heard of a Midge before going to Scotland. If you’re like me, a Midge is a lot like a nat except they bite, and their bite will leave a little red dot that itches for days, so it’s best to avoid being bit if possible.

Buy “Smidge” from a gas station in Scotland to protect yourself! ◡̈

If you look close enough, you’ll see tiny little white dots, these are midges & they sure do bite!

This Scotland road trip is one of our favorite trips we’ve done together so far. The landscapes are beautiful, the air is crisp and fresh, and you have an undeniable sense of freedom and adventure when you are out there exploring.

However, we understand that this roadtrip can be a bit pricey. But we’re here to tell you that there are ways to do this roadtrip in a cost-effective way. ↓

For a more budget friendly trip, we would definitely opt for a camper van, plus it would give us the ultimate flexibility and freedom to explore.

You can rent a camper van from a budget-friendly company like Road Surfer and use Park4Night to plan where you’ll sleep! This could easily save you hundreds of dollars.

So, if Scotland is on your list, then move it to the top and start planning this road trip of a lifetime!

𓆝 𓆟 𓆞 

If you’ve got any other tips, questions or recommendations share them in the comments below. You can also send us a message on our Instagram.

HAPPY PLANNING! ◡̈